Pat McKay Nutrition Program
90% Raw Meat, 10% Cooked Vegetables, BIO-8, & CLO-3
To be at their optimum health, our dogs must eat live food just as coyotes and wolves do in the wild.
My Nutrition Program for preparing meals for all puppies and dogs is 90% raw ground and/or chunk meat and 10% boiled, steamed, or sautéed in salted butter vegetables that have been mashed to the consistency of baby food before mixing with the raw meat.
To prepare one cup (8 ounces) of 90/10: 7 ounces of raw meat to 1 ounce of vegetables.
A reminder that there isn’t one pet food on the market that is fit to feed…none…no exceptions. In order to have healthy dogs and cats, you must prepare the food yourself. I have found that Costco has the best quality meats and vegetables. For my dogs I am feeding Costco stew beef, chicken thighs with skin, and lamb leg roasts. For vegetables from Costco: zucchini, celery, broccoli, green beans, and cauliflower. Of course, if you happen to live in an area where you can buy directly from farmers and ranchers who are raising meat and vegetables organically, then you are the lucky ones.
You may prepare sufficient amounts for your family of dogs on a daily basis or you may prepare large amounts and freeze it in packages containing enough for their daily food.
My dogs’ first preference in vegetables now is for me to sauté the vegetables in salted butter on very low heat until soft. Most often water will need to be added for steaming. In other words not fried at all but more like steaming in their own juice in a cast iron frying pan with lots of butter and chopped to the consistency of junior food, rather than mashed to the consistency of baby food. For puppies or adult dogs that are first starting on my program, it is best to mash the vegetables to the consistency of baby food. Later, when your dog is healthier, s/he can graduate to junior food consistency.
Whether you use that method or steaming, boiling, mashing, food processing; whatever, I’m sure there aren’t two people preparing their dog’s food in the same way…and that’s fine. Whatever works for you. What is important is that the meat is raw and the vegetables are soft.
You may have a dog that eats 1 tablespoon a day or you may have one that consumes 6 cups or more a day. No matter what the size your animal, the 90/10 proportions remain the same.
All meats and vegetables must be fit for human consumption.
PROTEINS, the best to feed are: beef, lamb, chicken, turkey, buffalo, venison, elk, emu, ostrich, all fit for human consumption. Be sure to rotate proteins. It is best to feed a different protein each day; however, on occasion if you have food left over, you may feed the same protein two days in a row, but do not feed the same protein more than two days in a row before rotating to a different protein.
ORGAN MEATS: If you have access to organ meats (heart, liver, kidney), then my suggestion is to feed 20% organ meat in each meal. If you don’t have easy access to organ meats, then when you can get them, feed them as treats. When adding organ meats to the food, it must be the same organ meat as the muscle meat; in other words, if you are feeding beef, the organ meat must be beef; if you are feeding chicken, the organ meat must be chicken, and so on.
VEGETABLES, the best to feed are: broccoli, zucchini and any other winter or summer squashes, celery, kale, Romaine lettuce, asparagus, and pumpkin. (Even canned pumpkin is fine as long as the label says 100% pure pumpkin.) Do not feed pumpkin every day as I have heard that some are doing. Dogs need a variety of vegetables just as they do meat.
I’m finding that some dogs do well on cauliflower. You just have to decide whether cauliflower works for your dog or not.
Dogs and cats should not be fed root vegetables such as carrots and sweet potatoes. Root vegetables by nature have too much sugar, albeit natural sugar, and too much starch. Dogs do not produce much amylase which is the enzyme that breaks down carbohydrates.
Dogs should not be fed any vegetables that have a hull such as peas, corn, or dried beans, because again, they do not have the necessary enzymes to break down those hulls. Green beans are the one exception to beans.
In preparing your own food here are a couple of suggestions: Recipes
You must add two basic supplements to your animal’s food program: BIO-8-Powder and CLO-3-Pearls.
The BIO-8-Powder goes in their morning meal.
The CLO-3-Pearls are given as a treat later in the day. Two slices of salted butter with the CLO-3 soft gels in between. I call this their Butter Sandwich. Dogs need 30% fat…we need only 10%...so be generous with the butter. Of course the grass-fed and/or organic butters are best. They are readily available now.
The dosages for each of the supplements are on the labels of my products and/or you may email me for help in deciding their dosages.
ORDER SUGGESTIONS: BIO-8-Powder for your dogs, BIO-8-Capsules for you & CLO-3-Pearls for both of you. BIO-8 & CLO-3 must both be taken for a complete and balanced nutrition program.
Other supplements may be needed for dogs who are ill; however, they should be selected with great care, because often you could be feeding and/or giving energy to the very bacterium, virus, or fungus that your dog's body is fighting.
You may mail email me for help in deciding whether your dog needs additional supplements. There is no charge for nutrition information or advice.
The only foods that should pass your dog's lips are raw meat, cooked vegetables, BIO-8, and their Butter Sandwich.
All food fed to your dogs must be fit for human consumption
Any food labeled for animals cannot be trusted. Even the companies producing raw foods for dogs have filler ingredients. Do not believe the marketing ploys of animal food companies.
BONE is a four-letter word: The reason you cannot feed the bones is because they are not fresh kill. Prey that they catch in the wild is raw, fresh, and alive. The bones are still soft, supple, hydrated, and full of nutrients. Bones from farm animals have been dead for days, weeks, or months. Rigor mortis sets in right after death and the bones become hard, brittle, dehydrated; the nutrients are dead and gone. What is left is a gritty substance that causes severe pancreatitis, leaky-gut, irritable bowel, impacted bowel, chalky and bloody stools, diarrhea, constipation, all of which are devastating to the gastrointestinal system.
Yes, you can occasionally give SOME dogs bones for dessert; I am opposed to feeding bone…ground or whole…except an occasional bone for dessert to chew for pleasure. And even that needs to be evaluated depending on each individual dog, how voraciously s/he goes after the bone. If your dog actually eats the bone, breaks off chunks, whatever, then you must take the bone away. When giving bones, you must be there with your dog. Do not give your dog a bone, and then go off and not observe whether s/he is eating the actual bone. It is okay to eat the meat off of the bone, but not the bone itself.
NO bones of any kind, whole or ground, should be fed to dogs as part of their main meal.
TREATS: The only treats that should be given to your dogs are pieces of raw meat or raw meatballs or butter. For training purposes, you may give tiny pieces of roasted meat, because it certainly isn't convenient to carry raw meat in your pocket. Also Kongs filled with raw meat can be fun for your dogs. If they are able to get the raw meat out in a couple of seconds, then my suggestion is to freeze the Kongs with the raw meat, and that will take at least a little longer to get out that raw meat.
I have been making what I call “hot dogs,” which is ground hamburger meat that I roll into the size of small hot dogs. I freeze them on cookie sheets, and when frozen, then put them in a bag in the freezer and give them for treats.
The following is a list of No-No's for dogs:
NO grains, cereals, bread, rice, pasta, dairy, fruit, yeast, pork (except from Costco or organically raised from a farmer/rancher you know personally), rabbit (except from organically raised from a farmer/rancher you know personally, and no ground rabbit that includes the bones), soy, ground bone, bone meal, egg shells, alfalfa, kelp (or any other herbs), canned/dry foods, dehydrated foods, commercial dog treats, milk bones, rawhide, pigs' ears, nylabones, etc.
NO vegetables with hulls (peas, corn, beans, etc).
NO root vegetables: carrots, sweet potatoes, etc.
Green beans that have been thoroughly cooked and mashed are the one exception to beans; in fact, they are of exceptional value for diabetes, obesity, heart disease, and cancer.
NO nightshade vegetables: white potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, or iceberg lettuce or raw spinach. (Steamed spinach is fine occasionally.)
NO drugs, chemicals, or poisons, including vaccines, frontline, advantage, advantix, program, heartgard, antihistamines, antibiotics, rimadyl, benadryl, flagyl, steroids, etc.
Natural solutions to all of these drugs, chemicals, and poisons are available.
There are always exceptions to the above No-No's, so if you have any specific questions, I am happy to answer them for you.
For free nutrition information and advice, email Pat McKay