For free nutrition information and advice, email Pat McKay

Pat McKay Nutrition Program
90% Raw Meat, 10% Cooked Vegetables, BIO-8, & CLO-3

To be at their optimum health, our dogs and cats must eat live food just as coyotes, wolves, bobcats, and mountain lions do in the wild.

My Nutrition Program for preparing meals for all kittens/puppies and cats/dogs is 90% chunks of raw meat and 10% boiled or steamed vegetables that have been mashed to the consistency of baby food or junior food before mixing with the raw meat…and lots of butter in the vegetables.

To prepare one cup (8 ounces) of 90/10:   7 ounces of raw meat to 1 ounce of vegetables.

​There isn’t one pet food on the market that is fit to feed…none…no exceptions. 

For those of you in Greater Los Angeles, Cheri Slater and Harold Jackson have started their own business preparing and selling Pat’s Recipe.  Give Cheri a call:  714-673-7612

In order to have healthy dogs and cats, those of you who are not in the LA area, you must prepare the food yourself.  I have found that Costco is one of the places that has the best quality meats and vegetables, and best prices.  For my dogs I am feeding Costco beef chuck, chicken thighs with skin, lamb leg roasts, and pork butt…sometimes called pork shoulder.

For vegetables from Costco: zucchini, celery, broccoli, green beans, and cauliflower.  Of course, if you happen to live in an area where you can buy directly from farmers and ranchers who are raising meat and vegetables organically, then you are the lucky ones.

I do buy meat by the case; I have large dogs, and I do prepare food for my friends’ dogs and cats.  Whether you prepare large amounts of food for several cats/dogs or for one small dog or cat, the meat and vegetables are the same.

You may prepare sufficient amounts for your family of dogs/cats on a daily basis or you may prepare large amounts and freeze it in packages containing enough for their daily food.

My dogs’ first preference in vegetables now is for me to sauté the vegetables in salted butter covered with water on very low heat until soft.  In other words, the vegetables are not fried at all but steaming in their own juice in a cast iron frying pan with lots of butter and water and chopped to the consistency of junior food, rather than mashed to the consistency of baby food. For puppies or adult dogs that are first starting on my program, it is best to mash the vegetables to the consistency of baby food.  Later, when your dog is healthier, s/he can graduate to junior food consistency.

Whether you use my method of steaming, or you boil the vegetables; whatever, I’m sure there aren’t two people preparing their cat or dog’s food in the same way…and that’s fine.  Whatever works for you.  What is important is that the meat is in chunks, that it is raw, and the vegetables are cooked and mashed. 

You may have a cat/dog that eats 1 tablespoon a day or you may have one that consumes 6 cups or more a day. No matter what the size your animal, the 90/10 proportions remain the same. 

                      All meats and vegetables must be fit for human consumption.

PROTEINS, the best to feed are:  beef, lamb, chicken, pork, turkey, buffalo, venison, elk, emu, ostrich, all fit for human consumption. Be sure to rotate proteins.  It is best to feed a different protein each day; however, on occasion if you have food left over, you may feed the same protein two days in a row, but do not feed the same protein more than two days in a row before rotating to a different protein.

For your cats and dogs’ health, all meats must be whole and cut into chunks which are a convenient size for your particular animal.  I am opposed to feeding ground meats for their meals, because cats and dogs in the wild swallow their small prey whole, and when they catch a larger prey, they bite off chunks.  Felines and canines do not eat ground meat in the wild.  It is important to stay as close as possible to what your animal would eat in the wild.

ORGAN MEATS: If you have access to organ meats (heart, liver, kidney), then my suggestion is to feed 10% to 20% organ meat in each meal.  If you don’t have easy access to organ meats, then when you can get them, feed them as treats. When adding organ meats to the food, it must be the same organ meat as the muscle meat; in other words, if you are feeding beef, the organ meat must be beef; if you are feeding chicken, the organ meat must be chicken, and so on. 

You may always give organ meats as a treat if it doesn’t match what you are feeding that day.

VEGETABLES, the best to feed are: broccoli, zucchini and any other winter or summer squashes, celery, cauliflower, green beans, asparagus, and occasionally pumpkin. (Even canned pumpkin is fine as long as the label says 100% pure pumpkin.)  Do not feed pumpkin every day as I have heard that some are doing.  Dogs and cats need a variety of vegetables just as they do meat.

Dogs and cats should not be fed root vegetables such as carrots and sweet potatoes.  Root vegetables by nature have too much sugar, albeit natural sugar, and too much starch.  Dogs/cats do not produce sufficient amylase which is the enzyme that breaks down carbohydrates.

Cats and dogs should not be fed any vegetables that have a hull such as peas, corn, or dried beans, because again, they do not have the necessary enzymes to break down those hulls.  Green beans are the one exception to beans.  Green beans take a long time to cook, and they need to be mashed well.

In preparing your own food, here are some recipe suggestions:  Recipes

SUPPLEMENTS:   You must add two basic supplements to your animal’s food program:    

BIO-8-Powder and CLO-3-Pearls. 
The BIO-8-Powder goes in their morning meal.
The CLO-3-Pearls are given as a treat later in the day. Two slices of salted butter with the CLO-3 soft gels in between.  I call this their Butter Sandwich.  Dogs and cats need 30% fat…we need only be generous with the butter.  Of course the grass-fed and/or organic butters are best.  They are readily available now.
The dosages for each of the supplements are on the labels of my products and/or you may email me for help in deciding their dosages.

ORDER SUGGESTIONS:  BIO-8-Powder for your dogs, BIO-8-Capsules for you & CLO-3-Pearls for both of you.  BIO-8 & CLO-3 must both be taken for a complete and balanced nutrition program.

Other supplements may be needed for dogs who are ill; however, they should be selected with great care, because often you could be feeding and/or giving energy to the very bacterium, virus, or fungus that your cat or dog's body is fighting.

You may mail email me for help in deciding whether your cat or dog needs additional supplements.  There is no charge for nutrition information or advice.

The only foods that should pass your cat or dog's lips are raw meat, cooked vegetables, BIO-8, and their Butter Sandwich.  CLO-3/Butter Sandwich

All food fed to your dogs and cats must be fit for human consumption

Any food labeled for animals cannot be trusted. Even the companies producing raw foods for dogs and cats have filler ingredients. Do not believe the marketing ploys of animal food companies.

The following is a list of No-No's for dogs/cats:
NO grains, cereals, bread, rice, pasta, dairy, fruit, yeast, rabbit (except from organically raised from a farmer/rancher you know personally, and no ground rabbit that includes the bones), soy, ground bone, bone meal, egg shells, alfalfa, kelp (or any other herbs), canned/dry foods, dehydrated foods, commercial dog treats, milk bones, rawhide, pigs' ears, nylabones, etc.

NO vegetables with hulls (peas, corn, beans, etc). 

NO root vegetables:  carrots, sweet potatoes, etc.

Green beans that have been thoroughly cooked and mashed are the one exception to beans; in fact, they are of exceptional value for diabetes, obesity, heart disease, and cancer. 

NO nightshade vegetables: white potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, or iceberg lettuce or raw spinach. (Steamed spinach is fine occasionally.)

NO drugs, chemicals, or poisons, including vaccines, frontline, advantage, advantix, program, heartgard, antihistamines, antibiotics, rimadyl, benadryl, flagyl, steroids, etc.

Natural solutions to all of these drugs, chemicals, and poisons are available.

There are always exceptions to the above No-No's, so if you have any specific questions, I am happy to answer them for you.


For free nutrition information and advice, email Pat McKay